Rangemaster board?

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devnulljp
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Rangemaster board?

Post by devnulljp »

I need a Rangemaster, and found this board in my pile o crap.
I have some OC44s and a bucketful of other parts, but can't remember where I got this and have no idea what goes where. Don't think it's a PigeonFX.
Anyone recognise it? Know where I can get a legend? Or should I just give up and try it on perfboard or a tagstrip?
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Dear Bongo, No.
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Dr Tony Balls
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Re: Rangemaster board?

Post by Dr Tony Balls »

No clue where it came from but i'm bored so here's what I would do, working backward. Not sure what the two pads are on the bottom....could be for a current limiting resistor for an LED, but not important to the circuit.

Image
RMboard.jpg
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devnulljp
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Re: Rangemaster board?

Post by devnulljp »

Dr Tony Balls wrote: Tue Oct 06, 2020 6:57 pm No clue where it came from but i'm bored so here's what I would do, working backward. Not sure what the two pads are on the bottom....could be for a current limiting resistor for an LED, but not important to the circuit.

Image

RMboard.jpg
Thanks, that's brilliant. Where does the switch go? I got it to kick on by grounding one of the resistors against the case and it doesn't sound half bad.
Dear Bongo, No.
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Dr Tony Balls
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Re: Rangemaster board?

Post by Dr Tony Balls »

Like so:

Image

You can ignore the right-most column of terminals if you're using a DPDT and dont want an LED
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Electric Warrior
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Re: Rangemaster board?

Post by Electric Warrior »

This is the better way of bypassing with a DPDT:
Image

It grounds the circuit board input when bypassed, preventing many issues with popping sounds when turning the pedal on.
Everything is transitional.
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Dr Tony Balls
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Re: Rangemaster board?

Post by Dr Tony Balls »

Electric Warrior wrote: Wed Oct 07, 2020 5:48 pm This is the better way of bypassing with a DPDT:
Image

It grounds the circuit board input when bypassed, preventing many issues with popping sounds when turning the pedal on.
That last part is incorrect, though the wiring method is not a bad one. Some circuits are unstable when the input connection is left open and will create noise issues even when bypassed. This usually manifests itself as a hiss or oscillation and is particularly common in high gain circuits (which I would not consider the Rangemaster to be). Stuff like fuzzes and distortions. That said its not a BAD thing to do, just maybe not fully needed...though its like not like it takes any longer.

Switch POP in latching switches is entirely different and due to DC collecting on the switch terminals when the pedal is not in use. That is commonly solved with large pulldown resistors on the input and output of the circuit itself, such as what is seen here (1M resistors) on this modernized Rangemaster schematic:

Image
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